Spring has sprung here in Paris. Il fait beau! The parks are brimming with well-coiffed French families, lounging locals, and tourist donning clothing sportif trying to run off the chocolat moelleux they ate the night before. Flowers are blossoming and the trees are budding. The sides of the Seine have become favorite spots for sunbathers and lunch-time picnickers. The market colors are enlivening with all the new seasonal fruits et legumes ...strawberries, blood oranges, white asparagus, kumquats and every shape and color of tomato. It is indeed springtime in Paris…how wonderful it is to see and feel the sun again!!
I spent this first spring weekend learning the art of the French table...l’art de la table. Since I love to eat French food and cook French food I figured it was now time I learn how to properly set a French table! Like a perfect mayonnaise ou sauce béchamel, the process is as much science as it is art.
Et Viola! Une table parfaite!
The class was offered as part of the Park Hyatt – Vendome’s seasonal gastronomic and oenological program called “Masters of Food and Wine.” I don’t know if the topic would be of interest to most, but I along with 4 Parisians clearly thought spending a sunny afternoon inside learning how to set a table according to the rules of etiquette was clearly worthwhile…learning these secrets at one of Paris’ most prestigious hotels from a true master of the art was also a nice incentive :).
Our Maître de l’art de la table, Jean-Francios!
Jean-Francios has over 30 years of experience of creating breathtaking tables for prestigious events and private individuals looking to impress guests. He supplies all the plates, glasses, silverware, etc from his own collection that he keeps in a storage room below his Parisian apartment. I was told he has over 40,000 pieces!! And is currently in the process of looking for a bigger place…uh, I can imagine.
What I loved most about Jean-Francios’ collection was how unique each item was. He had small salt bowls marked with a royal crest in the colors of orange and pink from Lisbon , stemware from Venice, silverware from England and decorative balls from Ikea :). I most admired (and envied!) the tablecloth he brought to dress our “classic” table. It was about a 5 meter piece of lace gifted to him from the famous French lace maker, Soltiss, in the exact pattern used to create Kate Middleton’s wedding dress!! Simply gorgeous!
Jean-Francios’ first lesson to setting the quintessential French table and most important element: a pair of white cotton gloves. Oh no! Looks like I will never have a truly French table…cuz you will find my little fingerprints…albeit clean fingerprints…all over your glasses and plates. *sigh* C’est la vie!
Some interesting facts:
1) Like many aristocrats’ heads during the time of the French Revolution, L’Art de la Table was lost during this period. However, Napoleon revived the art as he felt that this tradition of etiquette and elegance was also a statement of power.
2) The English way of setting a table is with the silverware face up as they place their personalized monogram traditionally on the front. The French way is to place the silverware upside down as they place their monograms on the back. Why do I feel like one saw where the other placed their monogram and purposely decided to do the opposite…Oh, the Europeans :).
3) Plates should be 30cm apart and each place setting should take around 60cm. One thumb should be used as a measure from the end of the plate to the end of the table as well as between the plate and the silverware. It is important to carry a tape measure, like we did, during the setting of the table to make sure each place setting is uniform and equidistant (I say this with a very straight face).
4) Place cards with guests names only are required when there are more than 8 guests. Jean-Francios prefers to place the name card on the top of the white wine glass so his guests don’t have to awkwardly bend down as they peruse the table looking for their name. Seriously, besides the French, who thinks of this!
Une Table Contemporaine
This was the finished product of our contemporary table. Since the French present their food already plated it is quite okay to fill the center of the table with candles and other decorative elements. Jean-Francios emphasized that a proper table should have some sort of living element to represent life as well as give the table a fresh, light air. But, fait attention, don’t chose the most aeromatic flowers at the market, as they will greatly impede the nuissances in the bouquet of the Viognier you are serving with the Sea Bream….thus causing guests’ dining experience to go from the potential of great to simply nul.
“The architect of the table and creating harmony” is the most important aspect of l’art de la table per Jean-Francios (“le rigueur” is how he stated it in French). And don’t be scared to mix items you have at home to create a table that reflects you and your personality. L’Art de la Table is about expressing your creativity, making your guests feel special as well as following classic rules. Above are some of Jean-Francios’ lovely salt dishes.
Placing the napkin thoughtfully next to the salad fork.
A table that looks good enough to eat! Well, good enough to eat off of…
I think Louis XIV would approve too!
How all classes should end…with a bottle of Billecart-Salmon Champagne!
At the end of the afternoon with Jean-Francios and all my new friends at the Park Hyatt I left with that, “Ah, Paris!” feeling. I mean really where else in the world could I go to learn an art that has been a cultural tradition for hundreds of year….and where the presentation of the table is as important as the food itself? These are the experiences that continue to nurture and grow my love and appreciation for this beautiful city and country.
And now I need to hit the flea market to find my own little salt dishes in the shape of a shell :)….
Joyeux Printemps!
Plan YOUR Adventure: Park Hyatt – Vendôme 5 Rue de la Paix 75002 Paris “Masters of Food and Wine” Info Website * * Park Hyatt plans to do these event several times a year so check their website for events at their properties around the world. My experience was unforgettable. The second day I participated in the market tour with the sous-chef from their one star Michelin restaurant, Pur, followed by a private lunch for our group in the dining room created by the chef. In a note to one of the great staff members who helped organize the day, Coralie, who is also the Marketing Communications Manager, I wrote: “I can’t express enough how much I enjoyed myself … It was an absolute treat touring the market with you and sous-Chef Ai. And lunch was spectacular…having the beautiful Pur dining room to ourselves, being served by Ms. Ai, enjoying course after course of market fresh ingredients (some we even bought!) and delicious wine pairings presented by charming Guillaume, and then, to top it off, delighting in fun conversation with an interesting group of fellow food lovers :)! It was indeed a rare and unforgettable afternoon. Thank you so much to you and your team for making it possible.”