My last night in Modena (pronounced MO-deh-nah), my adorable server, Luca, asked me, “Why did you come to Modena?” The simple answer: to eat…of course! The medieval town is not the tourist mecca that some other towns in Italy draw…but the Emilia-Romagna region is touted as having the best food in Italy. The famous Parmigiano Reggiano is made just one short train stop away, traditional balsamic vinegar is the pride of Modena and the fresh tortellini, tortelloni and tagliatelle is on every trattoria and osteria menu. The question for me was more, “why would I NOT come”…versus Luca’s inquiry.
I was definitely one of a few out of town visitors to this special town…but that was fine with me cuz I came to eat like a local. And mission accomplished! Even though I dined alone each evening, I somehow passed hours at each restaurant. I literally savored every moment in this town, the birth place of Pavorati, home of the Ferrari and Maserati (Lamborghini is made one town away!)…and the only place in the world where traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Modena is lovingly made in the attics of locals’ homes.
I apologize in advance for the parade of food photos that are to follow (especially if you are hungry!). But like I said, I went to Modena to eat…and it would be a shame not to share the artistry of the food…even if only in pictures.
The streets of Modena.
Like many towns in Italy, its history dates back to ancient times. It was a Roman colony at one point, but the “centro storico” of today is a perfectly preserved medieval town with cobblestone streets and a beautiful 12th century duomo.
My first meal in Modena was at a very casual trattoria about 5 minutes from my hotel.
I started the meal with an antipasti of local cured hams and gnocci fritto…which are typical to this region and are kinda like large fried, doughy ravioli. Quite delicious. For my primi (and secondi) I had the handmade tortelloni with pureed zucca (pumpkin!)…oh wow, with the fresh grated parma-reggia it was something to linger over…which I did for about an hour cuz I didn’t want the meal to end:). Dessert was the owner’s favorite, coconut semifreddo with drizzled hot chocolate sauce.
I rolled home that evening….and was happy to do so!
Because Modena is associated all over the world with balsamic vinegar, I made it my mission on my first full day in Modena to learn about this syrupy sensation. I read online that there was a place just outside of the center that did free tours…and since the price was right, I set out to find it. When I rang the doorbell, I didn’t realize that I would be ringing some one’s home nor that I technically needed an appointment. Giorgio, the owner of the home and the maker of the traditional vinegar, let me in. He let me into his home which has been in his family the past 150 years and up the stairs to the attic where he keeps the Modena tradition of making balsamic vinegar…learned from his grandmother. Giorgio didn’t speak much English, so our time together was more tasting the final product than learning about the process to make it…but after about an hour his wife, Giovanna, came home to give me the 411 on the ingredients (just Trebbiano grapes!), methods, timing and extreme passion that goes into this 350 year old art.
Over the course of 25 years, the boiled down juices from the local trebbiano grape are aged in the barrels of different woods. Each year liquid from one barrel is moved in small quantities to the smaller barrel next to it. Over the course of the 12 – 25 plus years the juice ages. It become thick, black and develops a stunning, sweet and a bit acidic flavor. The smallest barrel contains the product that may merit bottling.
The process to create balsalmic vinegar in Modena is very strict and government regulated. To be considered a “Traditional,” a producer needs to live within the city limits of Modena, follow a strict process to create the vinegar and pass the blind taste tests set up by the local Chamber of Commerce. It is only with their okay that a producer can bottle their 12year bottle or reserve bottle (25+ year) of Modena’s “black gold.”
Giorgio’s reserve balsamic aged in cherry wood definitely passed my taste test :). This 35 year old liquid gold was intense, smooth and begged me to take home a bottle. Giorgio is one of 45 producers of this vinegar in Modena. He sells his most expensive reserve, 25+ year old bottles, for over 100 Euro…which is a steal considering these vinegars can cost up to 200 Euro. Giorgio does this art because of his love of the tradition and his passion for the product. He does not make any profits off the sale of his vinegars.
How do you REALLY know a balsamic vinegar is a TRADITIONAL balsamic from Modena? Just look at the bottle!
The real thing is identified by its mandatory DOP label and by its only legal container: a square-footed bottle designed by Giorgio Giugiaro, whose other projects include cars for Maserati and Lamborghini!
This is my little bottle that I am bringing home…can’t wait to put in on cheeses, meats and desserts!!!
After seeing how the balsalmic was produced, I needed to see it presented!
My 2 star Michelin restaurant that I wanted to go to was booked (argh!)…so I opted for this one star Michelin alternative :). I am so happy I did!
When in Modena, eat like the Modenese…and I did. My starter was prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiana-Reggiano with a few small drops of the fabled Tradional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena…getting hungry again just remembering it….
My primo piatto was a handmade tagliatelle with a 5 meat ragu sauce…and my secondo was a bolognese cutlet with prosciutto-parma cream sauce and little itty bitty square potatoes…really you think that would be enough, but yes, I had dessert too. All was paired lovingly and expertly with local wines….
Yet I rolled home another night in Modena!!
The beautiful and bountiful market in Modena.
Fresh pasta available to buy at the daily market.
Outside the Modena market…it was pretty inside and out!
I bought fruit, water and the local Lambrusco wine (light frizzante wine made from the Lambrusco grape) from this market.
I had gotten a half bottle of Lambrusco my first night in Modena from my hotel…it was good, but not great. So when I went down my 3rd night to try a different wine, I told the man at the front desk I wanted something besides Lambrusco. He said, “Yeah, I understand. Lambrusco is like Coca Cola.”
Ah, I love being in a country where they compare their wines to soft drinks!!!
A quick look inside the 12th century duomo.
No pictures were allowed…except this one 🙂
I wrapped up my eating adventure in Modena with this delicious, flourless 70% cacao cake at a little enoteca. I had already delighted my tummy with tortellini, cheeses and salamis…so this seemed like the perfect cap for the evening and my entire time in this culinary haven.
On the way home I said my good-byes to Modena and captured a few of her pretty piazzas at night on camera.
That evening, prior to setting out to my restaurant of choice, I had asked the hotel receptionist (who I think is also the owner) his opinion on several restaurants…like I had done the 2 nights previously. Upon finishing my list of a few places I wanted his local, expert opinion on he exclaimed, “Wow, you know EVERYTHING about Modena!” Actually, no….correction….not everything about Modena, just everything about your restaurants, because that is what I set out to do…and I am proud to say I was successful.
SO if you are going to Modena, send me an email…I have a list of some GREAT places you can eat at!
Next stop Sorrento and the Almafi Coast…where I write this from now!!! I met my friends, Mark and Rosie, down here….so nice to be with friends!!!!
Torino looks fantastic! What a special place. I never knew about Modena like I do now. Say hi to Mark and Rosie for me. Miss you!
D
The pictures of the food made me hungry. You are in food heaven. Italy is definitely on my "places to visit someday" list.