The Birthplace of the Incas – Lake Titicaca

Thank goodness for antibiotics.  I am not sure what *insert name of ancient Bolivian indigenous leader conquered by the Spanish here* revenge I acquired in Uyuni, but it went dormant only to wage a second, more comprehensive, assault on my body just in time for my flight back to La Paz and subsequent 3 hour bus ride to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca’s southern shore. Always a travel treat, but I survived it with dignity.  (Travel tip if headed to underdeveloped lands:  Bring your own antibiotics. You can get them from a travel clinic prior to trip. I don’t always use them, but I am always pleased as punch to have them when I overestimate the not-so-iron-sides of my stomach.)

Onward!

The ferry crossing on Lake Titicaca to get to Copacabana.

For some bizarre reason, when it came time to take the ferry across Lake Titicaca to get to the little resort town of Copacabana, the driver kicked all the foreigners (4 Frenchies and me) off the bus.  We were forced to take a 2 Boliviano (~.30 cents) boat over to the other side while all the Bolivian born souls were allowed to stay on the bus!!  Huh!? Was he concerned for our safety? Or perhaps wanted our 2BS to stimulate the local economy?  Maybe there is some superstition about gringos in buses on ferries? Regardless, my suitcase went in the bus….I took the boat.  Both of us arrived safely to the other side and Copacabana.

My respite in Copacabana, Hostal Las Olas!

Religious pilgrims have been coming to Copacabana for centuries.  Although I wouldn’t have classified my visit as such, I definitely came to revere its beauty (Although it didn’t take my breath away. I was already breathless due to the altitude! Lake Titicaca is the highest lake in the world at around 12,000ft. *feel free to boo now*) and learn about the sacred island off its shores, Isla del Sol.

The enchanting town of Copacabana as seen from the summit of the stony, steep hike to Cerro Calvario. There were 14 stations of the cross along the walk up.  I prayed my legs and lungs wouldn’t give out at each station.

Monuments venerating the Virgin Mary at the summit of Cerro Calvario.

At the top, pilgrims buy mini replicas of various material possessions that they hope the Virgin will grant them during the year  (why would anyone buy the itty bitty houses?!…Dream big, Bolivianos!). 

She said, “YES!”

Most cholitas when I ask if I can take their picture just shake their head, “no.” They believe that the camera captures their soul…which does sound terrifying if one believes that, so I have stopped asking.  However, seeing this woman sitting on the summit with a bag of llama wool spinning it into yarn for a shawl she was going to make inspired me to ask one more time…and guess what!? She gave me a semi-toothless grin and said, “A mi me gustan las photos.” (I like photos)  Well, all be! Lesson learned! Even if 200 cholitas say “no”…one might say, “yes.” Persistence in life and in pursuing cholita images pays off!

Hiking to the top of Cerro Calvario also paid off with this lovely sunset view.

Life in Bolivia.

Walking back to town from the summit I was captured by this old women and her sheep.  Bolivia is a beautiful country, just not the easiest place to be a Bolivian.  Twenty percent of the population earn around 15BS (~$2) a day.  I am sure this woman has only known a life of hard, laborious work.

Copacabana isn’t just a great town for relaxing, it is also a great jumping off point to go visit one of the most sacred islands of the Incas, Isla del Sol.

Life on Isla del Sol.

About 4,000 people live on the island, and like the Incas and the other indigenous cultures that inhabited the island since before 1000 years B.C., agriculture and fishing are their the primary industries.  Life on the island is quiet and not a motorized vehicles is to be found.

I have no idea what this group is harvesting in the picture above…but I appreciated that the pigs were taking part as well. They (the pigs) and the donkeys were the loudest things on the island.

The terraced hills of Isla del Sol.  These terraces have been used to grow crops for literally thousands of years….passed from culture to culture.

Our guide, Juan, showing us the most important site on Isla del Sol, the “Roca Sagrada.”  

This rock is *kinda* in the shape of a puma, and therefore the island use to be called “Isla Titicaca,” which in the indigenous language meant “puma rock.” The name has since been transferred to the lake and now the island’s namesake is the sun – which according to Incan mythology was born from this rock.  Also, according to our guide, it was also from this rock that the first two Incas were created…soooo that meant we were standing in the equivalent of the Garden of Eden for the Incan Adam and Eve!

Our guide also told us that just off the shore of Isla del Sol is an uninhabited island where 27 mermaids live. Without skipping a beat, he then quite seriously said that over his lifetime he has seen 7 of these mermaids. No Bolivian dares venture onto this island as it is considered enchanted and if one does breach its shores he will surely succumb to a tragic death. Therefore the island remains uninhabited…except for those 27 mermaids.

The sacrifice table near the Roca Sacrada…not always a good thing to be a virgin in the age of the Inca.

Ruinas de Chinkana on Isla del Sol.

The trail I hiked from the north end to south end of the island – about a 3 hour walk (although our guide insisted it was 2 hours…apparently I need to start chewing more coca leaves.)  The woman pictured was making some sort of woven article using her toes as an anchor to weave all the woolen pieces together.

Bolivian toll booth!

They quite literally nickel and dime you in this country.  Anytime I leave a town, airport or, in this case, use a trail, there is some sort of tariff that needs to be paid.  The price is never too much (5 – 15BS), but I do it often enough that I have started to put my loose change in a “impuestos” (taxes) pocket in my purse.  On this 11 kilometer trail I had to pay 3 different communities tolls to use their portion of the trail. Each time I would receive a very official looking paper that I would need to keep to present to the next controller at the end of the trail segment (I could start a mini bon fire with my stack!).  In the case of this control check point, the collected money will be used to fund the the school and basic needs of the its community, Challa.

Alicia! Weaver of llama wool and the talented maker of my two new dolls (she is holding them in the picture).

I caught glimpses of women selling cute little Andean dolls while I was hiking up the ancient path to see the Sacred Rock.  I didn’t buy any at the time because I was with a group, but they didn’t leave my mind.  The 3 hour trek to the south part of the island was desolate minus a few water and Coca Cola stands (you can’t escape Coca Cola in the world) so naturally I began to panic as I neared the end dollless (<- not sure that is a word).  But then Alicia appeared! She hand weaves all the clothing on her dolls (as well as all the placemats and other woolen wares she was selling) and assembles them.  I particularly appreciated their little sandals.  I chose a girl who held 2 babies in her arms and had one on her back (For the love!) and the very last boy (Sorry to the other ladies I left on the table!).  I also bought a little llama made from llama for good measure.  AND Alicia let me take her picture!  Besides the Twix bar I bought a few minutes later, that has been the best money I have spent so far this trip!

Back to the boat – Copacabana bound.

The birthplace of the Incas – and hopefully the death place of whatever bacteria decided to invade my body – Lake Titicaca was the perfect spot to wrap up most of my Bolivian adventures as well as kick off my next adventure to Machu Picchu in Peru.  From all I hear, magic awaits there!  Lets go!

Funny and I am sure it has a killer signal.