Venice is Sinking!

Or is it just high tide?

Actually both. But more on that later…

Now that spring has sprung, I am finally writing about my winter trip to Venice. In January and February, I spent over 3 weeks in Europe. To date I have just shared a glimpse of my time in England and not yet shared the glories of my experiences in the other 3 countries I visited. Well, that changes now!

Dreamy Canals of Venice.

This was my third visit to mystical city of canals.  I returned to Venice to curate hand blown glass pieces from the island of Murano for the shop (explore what I found here!).  Venice has been one of my favorite European cities since it captured my imagination as a little girl. Back then I couldn’t quite wrap my head around the thought of a city whose roadways were canals or that my little Venetian counterparts had to take boats instead of buses to school, but I was mesmerized by the idea. Frankly, I still am, so every chance I get I return to traverse its arched bridges, get lost in its narrow alley ways and indulge in its scrumptious sea fare.

This little antique glass shop was the first sight I captured right off the vaporetto and my 7:10am flight from Paris.

Within moments of arriving I decided that January was the best time to go to Venice. Granted I was bundled up in my wool coat and the wind was burning my face, but the city was calm and felt, for once, like it belonged to the Venetians versus the 14 million tourists that dot the streets annually.

Eye candy in route to find my boutique hotel.  Not sure I have ever noticed a fruit vendor in Venice before…usually I just see the mask and ancient map shops!

One of the hand blown glass Murano chandeliers in my marvelous hotel, Ca’ Gottardi. 

Some how I chose to stay at the best boutique hotel in all of Venice. Seriously. I reserved a room at Ca’ Gottardi because it had excellent reviews, was centrally located and the room rate was swoon-worthy, but I didn’t realize how the 14 room paradise on the canal, Rio de Noal, would become such a home for me.  The moment I arrived they treated me as if I was a dogaressa :).  From greeting me at the door (how did they know I was coming!?), upgrading my room, serving me fresh juice upon arrival, instantly setting up a meeting for me with a notable, trusted glass blowing factory on Murano and arranging the free water taxi to recommendations at wonderful nearby restaurants and great conversation each evening in the lobby, my stay was impeccable. Bravo Diego and Fabio! I have decided I will only stay at Ca’ Gottardi when I return to Venice again.

Before looking at pretty glass pieces, a girl had to eat!  My first lunch in Italy consisted of local wines and cheeses at a nearby wine bar. A group of Italian boys drank a bottle of Prosecco beside me – pretty sure this is exactly what heaven will be like!

My private water taxi whisking me to the little Venetian island of Murano, world famous for its handblown glass work.

Canal Grande di Murano

When I arrived at the glass shop I was greeted warmly by Giorgio, a Doctor in history and partner of the Mazzega glass factory. He graciously took my hand, helped me out of the boat and then proceeded to share with me his wonderful world of glass blowing…

This ultra hot oven is where all the magic begins! Here Master glass blower, Dino, is working on a new creation.

The famous glass work from Murano has been created on the island since 1291. Over the centuries the glass makers have refined and mastered speciality techniques that have allowed them to dazzle the world with pieces that range from breathtaking chandeliers (like the one in my hotel) to contemporary wine stoppers. I personally have been obsessed with the history and art that comes from this little island dedicated solely to glass blowing since my first visit to Venice back in 1995.

After several hours of touring multiple showrooms filled with breathtaking pieces, three espressos and some friendly negotiating, this is the masterpiece I feel in love with…

My exquisite Murano Mirror after it safely arrived chez moi! Now, where to put it!? Details, details.

Wine filling station in Venice.

Giorgio escorted me back to Venice and helped me maneuver the maze like streets of the city (otherwise I would still be looking for my quaint hotel :).  Along the way I saw one of the most delightful things – a “vino sfuso”, which literally means loose wine. Anyone with an empty bottle and 2 Euros can go inside and get their bottle filled with some local nectar!  When will these ideas make their way across the Atlantic!?

A long day of glass art hunting deserved a meal of one meatball!  Actually this was the house specialty appetizer. :). My meal was a delectable plate of linguine alle vongole (linguine with clams)! And yes, I drank that whole carafe of wine…but I think you already knew that.

High Tide in Venice

Upon returning to the hotel after dinner, Diego told me me the tide schedule for the morning. “Uh, okay, but why should I care,” was my puzzled response.  “The streets will be full of water and you won’t be able to get around easily without boots,” he answered back in his singsongy Italian accent. Apparently during the winter the city experiences a near daily high tide that submerges some streets.  “How did I not know this!?” was my first thought, but the second was, “How can I go out and experience it!?”

Diego found and dusted off the hotel’s “emergency” rubber waders and told me that high tide would be at its climax at 8:30am.  He suggested that I head to Piazza San Marco to splash around in the deepest waters as the Square is the lowest point in the city.

Me in the “emergency” boots ready to explore Venice under water!

All the accessories you will need in Venice…including colorful galoshes to keep you shopping even during high tide! 

Venice and Venetians have long been used to coping with “acqua alta” (again, how did I not know this!?).  It is a phenomenon that happens in the Venetian Lagoon during the winter months of November – January, and doesn’t affect the daily lives of Venetians much at all.  Walking the streets it was clear that I was the only one marveling at the designer shops and bakeries under 6 inches of water.  The rest of the workers and city dwellers were just going about their normal routine and wondering why I was so wide eyed.

Just another winter Tuesday in Piazza San Marco!

I witnessed many shops with pumps clearing their showrooms of copious amounts of water, and all shop keeps had squeegees in hand pushing excess water back into the streets.

Dangerously close to the edge (how I like to live my life :). Ha!).

Piazza San Marco

Extraordinary, no!?

A local striking a pose with me! I had to tell him to walk slowly as he approached me (piano! piano!) – all his splashing was making the high water spill over into my boots! 

While these pictures of Venice under water are a result of winter’s high tide, the “floating city” of romance and gondolas, is indeed slowly sinking into its watery foundations. Studies show Venice is naturally subsiding at a rate of about 0.8 to 1 millimeter per year. I will need taller galoshes next time!

The Romantic Rialto Bridge

Me on the colorful island of Burano.

When high tide subsided, I made my way over to another one of the Venetian islands – and a long time dream destination for me – Burano. Over on my shop blog you can learn more about my experience on this colorful island, famous for its lace making. This art is so time consuming and intricate that small doilies can sometimes cost over 1000Euros! And it is an art that may not be around much longer.  The youngest lace maker is in her 50s while the oldest is 94 (and doesn’t wear glasses when she works!)

Saying goodbye to the dreamy canals of Venice…

My last evening in Venice was a treat. A friend of mine took me to the famous Harry’s Bar for Bellinis (always good to have the cocktail that was invented in the establishment) and apps. Afterwards we met a prominent local gentleman who took some time away from his palace on the Grand Canal to wine and dine us at an adorable and delicious local osteria. Not once did I look at a menu, but somehow I was always presented with exactly what I wanted for each course of the memorable meal.  The highlight – a Sgroppino at the end of it all.  This local cocktail is creamy smoothy of lemonchello, lemon gelato and prosecco. Had I not had to leave (don’t ask 🙁 ), I believe we would have consumed 4 each!

Magical evenings like this always seem to happen in Venice.

Selfie on the train to my next destination, Torino, to visit my Italian Cousins!

While Venice may be sinking, each visit back makes me sink a little more in love with it.  I already anticipate my next experience, and somehow know it will be better than the rest…each visit always is.

Ciao!

“Venice, the most touristy place in the world, is still just completely magic to me.” 

– Frances Mayes