Incredible India – Jaipur

I left my daily massages in Rishikesh for consistent hot water and eating meat. Yesterday I successfully arrived in Jaipur – the capital of Rajastan.
.

This place is bustling! I am finding  that the constant noise, chaos and sheer disorder of India’s big cities zaps my energy quick.  Essential to my sanity is plenty of downtown and a personal driver who drops me exactly at my destination and picks me up when I am finished. I need to pace myself to keep the energy and enthusiasm high. Crossing the road at times has made me want to throw up my hands and say, “I give up!” …which I did today on the way to an ATM.

I owed a merchant 500 rupis for some bangles I bought at his shop.  A boy was tasked to guide me to the ATM and bring back the money to the merchant.  However, in the heat, constant horn beeps, fumes, ongoing companionship of “touts” trying to be my friend so I go with them to shop more, and problems at the first ATM, I ended up stopping  midway across one of Jaipur’s busiest intersections and told the boy, “I am going home.” -mind you all this conspired after a 5 hour walking tour of the city, so I was tired. I gave back the bangles I owed money for and then went to tackle finding an auto-rickshaw who would bring me home for a fair price. Fifteen minutes and much haggling later, I found one. I came home, showered and went straight for a  nap.  I decided to forego my plans this evening.  I am enjoying dinner on my quiet balcony watching wild peacocks jump from branch to branch instead. Tomorrow is another day…and I want to have the mental and physical stamina to enjoy it.  Incredible India Indeed!

Me and Buddy at Shahar Palace…my respite from the busy, noisy center of the city.

The owners of this boutique hotel, Colonel Singh and his wife, Nalini, are part of the royal Shahar family (I even got to see pictures of their castle!).  Their son, Fateh – who must have lost at drawing straws with his father to come pick me up at 5am at the bust station – is a professional polo player on the Jaipur team (Interesting note: Polo was actually invented here in India circa 1200AD!). The entire family is charming and going out of their way to take good care of me.  I couldn’t have chosen a better place to make my home in Jaipur.

My first excursion in Jaipur – its famous City Palace.

This is the past and current home of the city’s Maharaja. It was built between 1727 – 1732 by Sawai Jai Singh II.

Inside one of the courtyards at city palace.

As I meet Indians in this city and others, I find that conversations usually start like this:

Indian person: What is your country name?

Jen: America

Indian person: Ah, America! Good country.  Very good.

Jen: Thanks.  India is a great country too.

Indian person:  *smiles big and proud* Your name?

Jen: Jen

Indian person:  What is your age? (In the beginning I would ask them to repeat this question cuz I am not accustom to being asked this by a complete stranger!)

Jen; 38

Indian person: *usually some comment on how it isn’t possible or that I look 30 or that I maintain myself well*

Jen: Thanks

Indian person: Are you married?

Jen: No

Indian person:  Why not?

Jen: Well, I was married, but am now divorced.

Indian person: Why?

Jen: *exasperated…and then usually find some polite way to pacify their curiosity*

Indian person: *usually confused, sad or gives me a little speech on the importance of marriage.*

Jen: *nods head and listens*

I have decided that in the future  it may be easier to tell the Indians that I am married.  However, then the concern will be why I don’t have kids yet…which could be equally traumatizing for them.  Perhaps I should say I have one kid…a girl, 4 years old…but then it starts becoming quite a story to maintain. It is true, though, that a single woman at my age with no children is quite troubling to most of them.  Maybe it is to me too.

Diwan-I-Khas: A private audience hall of the Maharajas

One of the two huge sterling silver vessels (5.2 ft high, 750 lb,  and each with capacity of 4000 litres). Each were made from 14000 melted silver coins. In the Guinness Book of World Records they are recorded as the world’s largest sterling silver vessels.These vessels were specially made by Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II, who was a highly pious Hindu, to carry the water of the Ganges to drink on his trip to England in 1901 (for Edward VII’s coronation).

The “Spring Gate” inside the palace.

Details on the “Peacock Gate” inside the palace.

An interesting element of life here in India, is trying to understand the “rotational headshake.” The western way of nodding the head up and down to indicate yes or shaking of the head to indicate no just doesn’t exist here.  In fact the sideways tilting back and forth of the head can mean yes, no, maybe or, mostly, “I couldn’t care less.” I have noticed I have started to adopt this all inclusive headshake…and sometimes even do it with my best French, Phfffff. 🙂

For sunset I asked my driver to take me to the Nahargarh Fort on one of the hills above Jaipur.

Nahargarh means “abode of the tigers” and so is sometimes called Tiger Fort.

It was originally built in 1734 to bolster the cities defences, but in 1892 the Maharaja Madho Singh transformed it to his picnic palace.

There are nine identical apartments in the palace (each complete with bedroom, kitchen, toilet and sitting room) for each of his wives….although gossip suggests that this palace was actually built for his concubines.  He could come visit them in privacy and away from watchful eyes in the city.

He fathered 125 children…so the gossip may be true!!

Details inside the palace.

It is a shame that it isn’t maintained better….

Inside one of the apartments.

One more fun story that illustrates some of the cultural differences I have encountered! When trying to decide my transportation method from Rishikesh to Jaipur, I consulted the employees at my Ayurvedic center for advice between which they thought I should take, the regular bus or the sleeper bus (had beds). I could tell they didn’t want to give me one definitive answer so I would add, “Maybe the regular bus?” And then they would say, “Yes, that would be best for you.”  Then I would add after some thinking, “Hmmm, but maybe the sleeper bus would be more comfortable?” To which they would respond, “Yes, that would be best for you!” This was always the response even if I changed my mind back to the regular bus.  Still makes me chuckle.

More of the beautiful detail inside the apartments.

Outside the Nahargarh Fort.

Crazy man feeding a monkey :)…the monkey showed its fangs when I got near it.

One of the beautiful little faces of this country.

For the sunset I headed to the terrace restaurant, Padao.

There was a “cover charge” of 50 Rupis, but it included a tea, coffee, mineral water or “cold drink” (<- which is any type of soda….except diet soda).

Sunset over Jaipur.

Sunset over Incredible India.

(I chose the mineral water, in case you were wondering.)

Bed now…so much to do tomorrow in order to make up for today. Bonne Nuit.

P.S. My recommended travel guide in Jaipur is the one I used, Love Jaipur, Rajasthan. This is an incredible guidebook that will really give you a unique and authentic experience in “the Pink City.”